Hair care composition containing a polyalkylene (n) alkylamine which provide hair volume reduction

ABSTRACT

Disclosed are hair care compositions including a polyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine of the formula (I and II), or mixtures thereof, wherein each R is independently a saturated, unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl group having from 1 to about 30 carbon atoms, R′ is a saturated, unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl group having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, each m is 2 or 3, each n is 2 or 3, each x and each y are independently a number of 1 or more wherein the sum of each x and each y is from about 3 to about 9; and wherein X—is any safe and suitable salt forming anion selected from the group consisting of chloride, bromide, iodide, acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkylsulfate, alkyl sulfonate, glutamate, aspartate, and mixtures thereof; and wherein the melting point of the polyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine is less than about 45° C.; and a suitable carrier; wherein the composition reduces bulk hair area by at least about 10%, according to an Image Analysis Protocol.

CROSS REFERENCE

[0001] This application claims priority to international applicationPCT/US00/06666, filed in English, Mar. 14, 2000, designating allcountries, including the US.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0002] The present invention relates to a hair care compositioncontaining a polyalkylene(n)alkylamine which provides hair volumereduction.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0003] Human hair becomes soiled due to its contact with the surroundingenvironment and from sebum secreted by the scalp. The soiling of thehair causes it to have a dirty or greasy feel, and an unattractiveappearance. The soiling of the hair necessitates shampooing withregularity.

[0004] Shampooing cleans the hair by removing excess soil and sebum.However, shampooing can leave hair in a wet, tangled, and generallyunmanageable state. After shampooing, hair is often left in a dry,rough, lusterless, or frizzy condition due to removal of the hair'snatural oils and other natural conditioning and moisturizing components.The hair can further be left with increased levels of static upon dryingwhich can interfere with combing and result in a condition commonlyreferred to as “flyaway hair.” Certain consumers consider such flyawayhair and the corresponding increase in total hair volume undesirable.Thus, it is desirable to provide smooth, soft, silky-feeling, andhealthy-looking hair, while decreasing flyaway hair volume and totalhair volume. In addition, it is typically desirable to increase thebiodegradability of a hair care composition.

[0005] A variety of approaches have been developed to address theseissues. Such approaches typically seek to increase smoothness, softness,and luster by including hair conditioning compounds, typically cationiccompounds, such as cationic surfactants, into a hair care composition.Such hair conditioning compounds may also reduce static. In theory,these cationic compounds, including quaternary ammonium compounds, seekto neutralize the static charge on the hair, and thus reduce flyawayhair volume to a certain degree. However, these hair conditioningcompounds do not sufficiently reduce total hair volume, and may be harshon the hair, skin, or scalp.

[0006] Accordingly, there exists a need for a hair care compositionwhich effectively deposits onto hair to noticeably reduce total hairvolume by reducing both bulk hair volume and flyaway hair volume. Therealso exists a need for a hair care composition which provides improvedmildness to the hair, skin and scalp, and has improved biodegradability.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0007] The present invention relates to a hair care compositionincluding a a polyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine of the formula (I), (II),or mixtures thereof:

[0008] wherein each R is independently a saturated, unsaturated,straight or branched alkyl group having from 1 to about 30 carbon atoms,R′ is a saturated, unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl group havingfrom 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, each m is 2 or 3, each n is 2 or 3, eachx and each y are independently a number of 1 or more wherein the sum ofeach x and each y is from about 3 to about 9; and wherein X⁻ is any safeand suitable salt forming anion selected from the group consisting ofchloride, bromide, iodide, acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate,phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkylsulfate, alkyl sulfonate,glutamate aspartate, and mixtures thereof; and wherein the melting pointof the polyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine is less than about 45° C.; and asuitable carrier; wherein the composition reduces bulk hair area by atleast about 10%, according to an Image Analysis Protocol.

[0009] It has now been found that total hair volume is actually the sumof the “flyaway hair volume” and the “bulk hair volume.” It has alsobeen found that a measurable reduction of bulk hair area, flyaway hairarea, and total hair area, by the Image Analysis Protocol describedherein, corresponds to a noticeable decrease in the bulk hair volume,flyaway hair volume, and the total hair volume, respectively.Accordingly, it has been found that reducing the bulk hair area cantherefore play a significant role in reducing the total hair volume.While certain compounds and compositions are known to reduce fly-awayhair volume, for example, by reducing the static charge of hair, thesecompositions do not noticeably reduce bulk hair volume. It has now beenfound that a hair care composition which moisturizes the hair maynoticeably reduce bulk hair volume, and may also noticeably reduceflyaway hair volume. This, in turn, provides a significant, noticeablereduction in total hair volume.

[0010] It has now been found that a hair care composition, preferably ahair conditioning composition, and/or a styling composition, containinga polyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine and a gel matrix may effectivelydeposit onto hair, and provide significant consumer-desirable benefits,such as an improved look and feel for hair, reduced bulk hair volume,reduced flyaway hair volume, and reduced total hair volume. Furthermore,the hair care composition is stable upon addition of oily components,provides improved mildness to the hair, skin and scalp, and has improvedbiodegradability.

[0011] These and other features, aspects, advantages, and variations ofthe present invention, and the embodiments described herein, will becomeevident to those skilled in the art from a reading of the presentdisclosure with the appended claims, and are covered within the scope ofthese claims.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURE

[0012] While the specification concludes with claims particularlypointing out and distinctly claiming the invention, it is believed thatthe invention will be better understood from the following descriptionof the accompanying figure in which:

[0013]FIG. 1 is a top view of a preferred embodiment of the ImageAnalysis System.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0014] All percentages, ratios and proportions herein are by weight ofthe final hair care composition, unless otherwise specified. Allmolecular weights herein are weight average molecular weights, unlessotherwise specified. All temperatures are in degrees Celsius (° C.)unless otherwise specified. All documents cited are incorporated hereinby reference in their entireties. Citation of any reference is not anadmission regarding any determination as to its availability as priorart to the claimed invention. The drawing herein is not necessarilydrawn to scale.

[0015] As used herein, the term “alkyl” means a hydrocarbyl moiety whichis straight, branched, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated. Unlessotherwise specified, alkyl moieties are preferably saturated orunsaturated with double bonds, preferably with one or two double bonds.Included in the term “alkyl” is the alkyl portion of acyl groups.

[0016] As used herein, the term “hair conditioning benefit” indicates aconditioning, softening, bulk hair volume reduction, flyaway hair volumereduction, total hair volume reduction, moisturizing, improved wet-hairor dry-hair feel, lubricating, smoothening, softening, and/or othereffect when applied to hair. All reductions in bulk hair volume, flyawayhair volume, and/or total hair volume are according to the ImageAnalysis Protocol, as described herein.

[0017] As used herein, the term “water-insoluble” means the compound issubstantially not soluble in water at 25° C., when the compound is mixedwith water at a concentration by weight of above 1.0%, preferably atabove 0.5%, the compound is temporarily dispersed to form an unstablecolloid in water, then is quickly separated from water into two phases.

[0018] Polyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine

[0019] The hair care composition of the present invention contains apolyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine which is substantially liquid at roomtemperature, typically having a melting point of less than about 45° C.,more preferably less than about 30° C.

[0020] Without intending to be limited by theory, it is believed thatthe polyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine useful herein provide a bulk hairvolume reduction benefit by the following mechanism: The amino andhydrophobic alkyl moieties help the compound to attach to hair fibers,even under rinse-off conditions, while the hydrophilic alkoxylate groupsattract water molecules and function as a moisture buffer to slow downwater content change in the hair fibers. This helps maintain the hairfibers in a flexible, soft, and plastic state. This in turn, allows thehair fiber to maintain a well-aligned conformation (with respect toother hair fibers) and to easily recover from deformation. This furtherincreases the likelihood that the hair fibers will remain parallel,and/or hang straight down. This significantly reduces the space betweenthe individual hair fibers, and therefore reduces both bulk hair volumeand flyaway hair volume.

[0021] Without intending to be limited by theory, it is also believedthat the polyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine may reduce flyaway hair volumeas well. It is believed that the amine moieties of thepolyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine are slightly positively charged in anaqueous carrier or a lower pH environment, thus, is attracted and welldeposited on the surface of the hair. Thus, together with themoisturizing effect to the hair fiber, thepolyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine may also reduce the hair fiber's staticcharge and crookedness. This reduces the electrostatic repulsion andspace between hair fibers, which leads to a reduction in flyaway hairvolume.

[0022] The polyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine useful in the presentinvention has a general formula (I), (II), or is a mixture of the two:

[0023] wherein each R is independently a saturated, unsaturated,straight or branched alkyl group having from 1 to about 30 carbon atoms,preferably from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, more preferably fromabout 10 to about 18 carbon atoms; R′ is a saturated, unsaturated,straight or branched alkyl group having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms,preferably hydrogen, methyl or ethyl; each m is 2 or 3, preferably 2;each n is 2 or 3, preferably 2; each x and each y are independently anumber of 1 or more wherein the sum of each x and each y is from about 3to about 9, preferably from 4 to 6, and X⁻ is any safe and suitable saltforming anion such as chloride, bromide, iodide, acetate, citrate,lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate,alkylsulfate, alkyl sulfonate, glutamate and aspartate radicals.

[0024] Preferred polyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamines are those havinggeneral formula (I). Compounds of general formula (I) are typically usedin combination with an acid to provide the cationic species. Thepreferred acid useful herein includes L-glutamic acid, lactic acid,hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid,tartaric acid, citric acid, L-glutamic hydrochloride, L-aspartic acid,and mixtures thereof. The molar ratio of protonatable amines to H⁺ fromthe acid is preferably from about 1:0.3 to 1:1.2. Highly suitablepolyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamines are polyethyleneglycol(n)alkylamineswherein both m and n are about 2.

[0025] Highly preferred polyethyleneglycol(n)alkylamines useful in thepresent invention are polyethyleneglycol-5-oleylamine, also abbreviatedas PEG-5 oleylamine, wherein the sum of x and y is about 5; andpolyethyleneglycol-5-cocamine also abbreviated as PEG-5 cocamine,wherein R is substantially made of straight chain alkyls having 10-16carbon atoms, and the sum of x and y is about 5.

[0026] The polyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine is preferably present at alevel of from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.4% toabout 3%, and still preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%, by weight ofthe hair care composition.

[0027] Particularly preferable and commercially availablepolyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamines are; PEG-5-oleylamine with tradenameVaronic Q-205, and PEG-5-cocamine with tradename Varonic K-205, bothavailable from Th. Goldschmidt AG.

[0028] Suitable Carrier

[0029] The suitable carrier contains a continuous phase, which istypically either water, or liquid hydrophobic material such as liquidfatty alcohol and acid, liquid hydrocarbon, liquid silicone materials,and mixtures thereof. The continuous phase is preferably water, but evena water continuous phase may also contain an oil emulsified, ordispersed therein, and visa-versa. Other carrier ingredients and/orother additional components may also be added into the suitable carrier.Without intending to be limited by theory, it is believed that thepolyalkylene(n)alkylamine of the present invention deposit especiallywell onto hair when included in a suitable carrier, such as an aqueouscarrier. It is believed that their combination of bulkiness, branching,and high molecular weight contribute significantly to their depositionand effectiveness, even in the absence of a gel matrix. Thus, while agel matrix is preferred, the polyalkylene(n)alkylamine herein providesignificant, desirable benefits, even in the absence of a gel matrix.

[0030] Gel Matrix

[0031] The suitable aqueous carrier useful herein is a gel matrix.Preferably, the gel matrix is comprised, by weight of the hair carecomposition, from about 60% to about 99%, preferably from about 70% toabout 95%, and more preferably from about 80% to about 95%. The gelmatrix includes a cationic surfactant, a solid fatty compound, andwater. The gel matrix serves as an aqueous carrier for the alkylethoxylate, and is typically characterized by a viscosity of from about5,000 cps to about 40,000 cps, preferably from about 10,000 cps to about30,000 cps, and more preferably from about 12,000 cps to about 28,000cps, as measured at 25° C., by means of a Brookfield Viscometer at shearrate of 1.0 rpm. Without intending to be limited by theory, it isbelieved that the gel matrix significantly improves deposition of thealkyl ethoxylate onto hair.

[0032] In a highly preferred embodiment, the gel matrix is a lamellargel matrix, which provides improved deposition, wet hair feel, softness,and other substantial benefits. In a lamellar gel matrix, the weightratio of cationic surfactant to solid fatty compound is from about 1:1to about 1:20, preferably from about 1:2 to about 1:10, and morepreferably form about 1:3 to 1:5. Generally, the preferred cationicsurfactants in the lamellar gel matrix contain one or two long chain(e.g., C₁₂₋₃₀)alkyl groups, and a tertiary or quaternary amine group.Tertiary amine groups having one or two C₁₆₋₂₂ alkyl chains arepreferred.

[0033] The existence of a lamellar gel matrix may be detected bydifferential scanning calorimetry (hereinafter referred to as “DSC”)measurement of the composition. A profile chart obtained by DSCmeasurement describes chemical and physical changes of the scannedsample that involve an enthalpy change or energy gradient when thetemperature of the sample is fluctuated. As such, the phase behavior andinteraction among components of hair conditioning compositions of thepresent invention may be understood by their DSC profiles. DSCmeasurement of compositions of the present invention may be conducted byany suitable instrument available. For example, DSC measurement may besuitably conducted by Seiko DSC 6000 instrument available from SeikoInstruments Inc. In a typical measurement procedure, a sample isprepared by sealing an appropriate amount of the composition into acontainer made for DSC measurement and sealed. The weight of the sampleis recorded. A blank sample i.e.; an unsealed sample of the samecontainer is also prepared. The sample and blank sample are placedinside the instrument, and run under a measurement condition of fromabout −50° C. to about 130° C. at a heating rate of from about 1°C./minute to about 10° C./minute. The area of the peaks as identifiedare calculated and divided by the weight of the sample to obtain theenthalpy change in mJ/mg.

[0034] In a preferred lamellar gel matrix, the DSC profile shows aformation peak of larger than about 3 mJ/mg. The position of the peaksare identified by the peak top position. The DSC profile of thepreferred lamellar gel matrix shows a single peak having a peak toptemperature of from about 55° C. to about 75° C., and from about 6 mJ/mgto about 10 mJ/mg. The preferred DSC profile of the lamellar gel matrixshows no peaks larger than 3 mJ/mg from 40° C. to 55° C. It is believedthat a composition formed predominantly with such a gel matrix shows arelatively stable phase behavior during the temperature range of fromabout 40° C. to about 55° C. In an even more preferred lamellar gelmatrix, the DSC profile shows a single peak having a peak toptemperature of between about 60° C. and 70° C., at about 8 mJ/mg, and nopeaks larger than 3 mJ/mg from 40° C. to about 55° C.

[0035] The gel matrix may become unstable or, at worst, become destroyedin the presence of certain components. Such components include highlevels of anionic surfactants and film-forming polymers having anionicmoieties. A highly preferred composition is substantially free of suchcomponents.

[0036] a. Cationic Surfactant

[0037] Among the cationic surfactants useful herein are thosecorresponding to the general Formula (I):

[0038] wherein at least one of R¹⁰¹, R¹⁰², R¹⁰³ and R¹⁰⁴ is selectedfrom an aliphatic group of from 8 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic,alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylarylgroup having up to about 22 carbon atoms, the remainder of R¹⁰¹, R¹⁰²,R¹⁰³ and R¹⁰⁴ are independently selected from an aliphatic group of from1 to about 22 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene,alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 22carbon atoms; and X⁻ is a salt-forming anion such as those selected fromhalogen (e.g., chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate,phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkylsulfate, and alkylsulfonate radicals. The aliphatic groups can contain, in addition tocarbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such asamino groups. The longer chain aliphatic groups, e.g., those of about 12carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated. Preferred is whenR¹⁰¹, R¹⁰², R¹⁰³ and R¹⁰⁴ are independently selected from C₁ to aboutC₂₂ alkyl. Nonlimiting examples of cationic surfactants useful in thepresent invention include the materials having the following CTFAdesignations: quaternium-8, quaternium-14, quaternium-18, quaternium-18methosulfate, quaternium-24, and mixtures thereof.

[0039] Among the cationic surfactants of general Formula (I), preferredare those containing in the molecule at least one alkyl chain having atleast 16 carbons. Nonlimiting examples of such preferred cationicsurfactants include: behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, forexample, with tradename INCROQUAT TMC-80 from Croda and ECONOL TM22 fromSanyo Kasei (Osaka, Japan); cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available,for example, with tradename CA-2350 from Nikko Chemical (Tokyo, Japan),hydrogenated tallow alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, dialkyl (14-18)dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride,dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyldimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride,di(behenyl/arachidyl)dimethyl ammonium chloride, dibehenyl dimethylammonium chloride, stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, stearylpropyleneglycol phosphate dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearoylamidopropyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, stearoyl amidopropyldimethyl(myristylacetate)ammonium chloride, and N-(stearoyl colaminoformyl methyl)pyridinium chloride.

[0040] Also preferred as cationic surfactants are hydrophilicallysubstituted cationic surfactants in which at least one of thesubstituents contain one or more aromatic, ether, ester, amido, or aminomoieties present as substituents or as linkages in the radical chain,wherein at least one of the R¹⁰¹—R¹⁰⁴ radicals contain one or morehydrophilic moieties selected from alkoxy (preferably C₁-C₃ alkoxy),polyoxyalkylene (preferably C₁-C₃ polyoxyalkylene), alkylamido,hydroxyalkyl, alkylester, and combinations thereof. Preferably, thehydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant contains from 2 to about10 nonionic hydrophile moieties located within the above stated ranges.Preferred hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include thoseof Formulas (II) through (VIII) below:

[0041] wherein n¹ is from 8 to about 28, m¹+m² is from 2 to about 40, Z¹is a short chain alkyl, preferably a C₁-C₃ alkyl, more preferablymethyl, or (CH₂CH₂O)_(m3)H wherein m¹+m²+m³ is from about 10 to about60, and X⁻ is a salt-forming anion as defined above;

[0042] wherein n² is 1 to 5, one or more of R¹⁰⁵, R¹⁰⁶, and R¹⁰⁷ areindependently an C₁-C₃₀ alkyl, the remainder are CH₂CH₂OH, one or two ofR¹⁰⁸, R¹⁰⁹, and R¹¹⁰ are independently an C₁-C₃₀ alkyl, and remainderare CH₂CH₂OH, and X⁻ is a salt-forming anion as mentioned above;

[0043] wherein, independently for formulas (IV) and (V), Z² is an alkyl,preferably C₁-C₃ alkyl, more preferably methyl, and Z³ is a short chainhydroxyalkyl, preferably hydroxymethyl or hydroxyethyl, n³ and n⁴independently are integers from 2 to 4, inclusive, preferably from 2 to3, inclusive, more preferably 2, R¹¹¹ and R¹¹², independently, aresubstituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbyls, C₁₂-C₂₀ alkyl or alkenyl, andX⁻ is a salt-forming anion as defined above;

[0044] wherein R¹¹³ is a hydrocarbyl, preferably a C₁-C₃ alkyl, morepreferably methyl, Z⁴ and Z⁵ are, independently, short chainhydrocarbyls, preferably C₂-C₄ alkyl or alkenyl, more preferably ethyl,m⁴ is from 2 to about 40, preferably from about 7 to about 30, and X⁻ isa salt-forming anion as defined above;

[0045] wherein R¹¹⁴ and R¹¹⁵, independently, are C₁-C₃ alkyl, preferablymethyl, Z⁶ is a C₁₂-C₂₂ hydrocarbyl, alkyl carboxy or alkylamido, and Ais a protein, preferably a collagen, keratin, milk protein, silk, soyprotein, wheat protein, or hydrolyzed forms thereof; and X⁻ is asalt-forming anion as defined above;

[0046] wherein n⁵ is 2 or 3, R¹¹⁶ and R¹¹⁷, independently are C₁-C₃hydrocarbyls preferably methyl, and X⁻ is a salt-forming anion asdefined above. Nonlimiting examples of hydrophilically substitutedcationic surfactants useful in the present invention include thematerials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-16,quaternium-26, quaternium-27, quaternium-30, quaternium-33,quaternium-43, quaternium-52, quaternium-53, quaternium-56,quaternium-60, quaternium-61, quaternium-62, quaternium-70,quaternium-71, quaternium-72, quaternium-75, quaternium-76 hydrolyzedcollagen, quaternium-77, quaternium-78, quaternium-79 hydrolyzedcollagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed keratin, quaternium-79 hydrolyzedmilk protein, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed silk, quaternium-79 hydrolyzedsoy protein, and quaternium-79 hydrolyzed wheat protein, quaternium-80,quaternium-81, quaternium-82, quaternium-83, quaternium-84, and mixturesthereof.

[0047] Highly preferred hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactantsinclude dialkylamido ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkylamidoethyldimonium salt, dialkyloyl ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkyloylethyldimonium salt, and mixtures thereof; for example, commerciallyavailable under the following tradenames; VARISOFT 110, VARISOFT 222,VARIQUAT K1215 and VARIQUAT 638 from Witco Chemicals (Greenwich, Conn.,USA), MACKPRO KLP, MACKPRO WLW, MACKPRO MLP, MACKPRO NSP, MACKPRO NLW,MACKPRO WWP, MACKPRO NLP, MACKPRO SLP from McIntyre, ETHOQUAD 18/25,ETHOQUAD O/12PG, ETHOQUAD C/25, ETHOQUAD S/25, and ETHODUOQUAD fromAkzo, DEHYQUAT SP from Henkel (Germany), and ATLAS G265 from ICIAmericas (Wilmington, Del., USA).

[0048] Salts of primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are alsosuitable cationic surfactants. The alkyl groups of such aminespreferably have from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and can besubstituted or unsubstituted. Particularly useful are amido substitutedtertiary fatty amines. Such amines, useful herein, includestearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine,stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine,palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine,palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine,behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine,behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine,arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine,arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine,diethylaminoethylstearamide. Also useful are dimethylstearamine,dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine,ethylstearylamine, N-tallowpropane diamine, ethoxylated (with 5 moles ofethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, andarachidylbehenylamine. These amines are typically used in combinationwith an acid to provide the cationic species. The preferred acid usefulherein includes L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malicacid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citricacid, L-glutamic hydrochloride, L-aspartic acid, and mixtures thereof;more preferably L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, citric acid. Cationicamine surfactants included among those useful in the present inventionare disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,275,055 to Nachtigal, et al., issuedJun. 23, 1981.

[0049] The molar ratio of protonatable amines to H⁺ from the acid ispreferably from about 1:0.3 to 1:1.2, and more preferably from about1:0.4 to about 1:1.1.

[0050] b. Solid Fatty Compound

[0051] The solid fatty compound useful herein has a melting point of 25°C. or higher, and is selected from the group consisting of fattyalcohols, fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. It is understood by theartisan that the compounds disclosed in this section of thespecification can in some instances fall into more than oneclassification, e.g., some fatty alcohol derivatives may also beclassified as fatty acid derivatives. However, a given classification isnot intended to be a limitation on that particular compound, but is doneso for convenience of classification and nomenclature. Further, it isunderstood by the artisan that, depending on the number and position ofdouble bonds, and length and position of the branches, certain compoundshaving certain required carbon atoms may have a melting point of lessthan 25° C. Such compounds of low melting point are not intended to beincluded in this section. Nonlimiting examples of the high melting pointcompounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, SecondEdition, 1992.

[0052] The solid fatty compound is included in the composition at alevel by weight of from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%.

[0053] The fatty alcohols useful herein are those having from about 14to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbonatoms. These fatty alcohols are saturated and can be straight orbranched chain alcohols. Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohols include,cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] The fatty acids useful herein are those having from about 10 toabout 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbonatoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. Thesefatty acids are saturated and can be straight or branched chain acids.Also included are diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids which meetthe requirements herein. Also included herein are salts of these fattyacids. Nonlimiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmiticacid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0055] Solid fatty compounds of a single compound of high purity arepreferred. Single compounds of pure fatty alcohols selected from thegroup of pure cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol arehighly preferred. By “pure” herein, what is meant is that the compoundhas a purity of at least about 90%, preferably at least about 95%. Thesesingle compounds of high purity may provide good rinsability from thehair when the consumer rinses off the composition.

[0056] Commercially available solid fatty compounds useful hereininclude: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol havingtradenames KONOL series available from Shin-nihon Rika (Osaka, Japan),and NAA series available from NOF (Tokyo, Japan); pure behenyl alcoholhaving tradename 1-DOCOSANOL available from Wako Chemical (Osaka,Japan), various fatty acids having tradenames NEO-FAT available fromAkzo (Chicago, Ill., USA), HYSTRENE available from Witco Corp. (Dublin,Ohio, USA), and DERMA available from Vevy (Genova, Italy).

[0057] While poly fatty alcohols may form the gel matrix, mono fattyalcohols are preferred. Either the cationic surfactant, and/or the solidfatty compound may be first mixed with, suspended in, and/or dissolvedin water when forming a gel matrix.

[0058] c. Water

[0059] The final hair care composition of the present inventiontypically comprises at least about 60%, preferably at least about 70%water, and more preferably from about 75% to about 95% water. Deionizedwater is preferably used. Water from natural sources including mineralcations may also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of theproduct.

[0060] Polypropylene Glycol

[0061] The hair care composition of the present invention preferablycontains a polypropylene glycol having a weight average molecular weightof from about 200 g/mol to about 100,000 g/mol, preferably from about1,000 g/mol to about 60,000 g/mol. Without intending to be limited bytheory, it is believed that the polypropylene glycol herein depositsonto, or is absorbed into hair to act as a moisturizer buffer, and/orprovides one or more other desirable hair conditioning benefits. As usedherein, the term “polypropylene glycol” includes single-polypropyleneglycol-chain segment polymers, and multi-polypropylene glycol-chainsegment polymers. The general structure of branched polymers such as themulti-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers herein are described,for example, in “Principles of Polymerization,” pp. 17-19, G. Odian,(John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 3^(rd) ed., 1991).

[0062] The polypropylene glycol herein are typically polydispersepolymers. The polypropylene glycols useful herein have a polydispersityof from about 1 to about 2.5, preferably from about 1 to about 2, andmore preferably from about 1 to about 1.5. As used herein, the term“polydispersity” indicates the degree of the molecular weightdistribution of the polymer sample. Specifically, the polydispersity isa ratio, greater than 1, equal to the weight average molecular weightdivided by the number average molecular weight. For a further discussionabout polydispersity, see “Principles of Polymerization,” pp. 20-24, G.Odian, (John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 3^(rd) ed., 1991).

[0063] The polypropylene glycol useful herein may be eitherwater-soluble, water-insoluble, or may have a limited solubility inwater, depending upon the degree of polymerization and whether othermoieties are attached thereto. The desired solubility of thepolypropylene glycol in water will depend in large part upon the form(e.g., leave-on, or rinse-off form) of the hair care composition. Thesolubility in water of the polypropylene glycol herein may be chosen bythe artisan according to a variety of factors. Accordingly, for aleave-on hair care composition, it is preferred that the polypropyleneglycol herein be a water-soluble polypropylene glycol. Solubilityinformation is readily available from polypropylene glycol suppliers,such as Sanyo Kasei (Osaka, Japan). However, the present invention mayalso take the form of a rinse-off hair care composition. Withoutintending to be limited by theory, it is believed that in such acomposition, a water-soluble polypropylene glycol may be too easilywashed away before it effectively deposits on hair and provides thedesired benefit(s). For such a composition, a less soluble, or even awater-insoluble polypropylene glycol is therefore preferred.Accordingly, for a rinse-off hair care composition, it is preferred thatthe polypropylene glycol herein has a solubility in water at 25° C. ofless than about 1 g/100 g water, more preferably a solubility in waterof less than about 0.5 g/100 g water, and even more preferably asolubility in water of less than about 0.1 g/100 g water.

[0064] The polypropylene glycol is typically present at a level of fromabout 0.5% to about 10%, and preferably from about 2% to about 6%, byweight of the hair care composition.

[0065] Preferably the polypropylene glycol is selected from the groupconsisting of a single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer, amulti-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer, and mixtures thereof,more preferably selected from the group consisting of asingle-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer of Formula I, below, amulti-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer of Formula II, below,and mixtures thereof.

[0066] Single-Polypropylene Glycol-Chain Segment Polymer

[0067] Accordingly, a highly preferred single-polypropylene glycol-chainsegment polymer has the formula:

HO—(C₃H₆O)_(a)H   (III),

[0068] wherein a is a value from about 4 to about 400, preferably fromabout 20 to about 100, and more preferably from about 20 to about 40.

[0069] The single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer usefulherein is typically inexpensive, and is readily available from, forexample, Sanyo Kasei (Osaka, Japan), Dow Chemicals (Midland, Mich.,USA), Calgon Chemical, Inc. (Skokie, Ill., USA), Arco Chemical Co.(Newton Square Pa., USA), Witco Chemicals Corp. (Greenwich, Conn., USA),and PPG Specialty Chemicals (Gurnee, Ill., USA).

[0070] Multi-Polypropylene Glycol-Chain Segment Polymer

[0071] A highly preferred multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segmentpolymer has the formula:

[0072] wherein n is a value from about 0 to about 10, preferably fromabout 0 to about 7, and more preferably from about 1 to about 4. InFormula IV, each R″ is independently selected from the group consistingof H, and C₁-C₃₀ alkyl, and preferably each R″ is independently selectedfrom the group consisting of H, and C₁-C₄ alkyl. In Formula IV, each bis independently a value from about 0 to about 2, preferably from about0 to about 1, and more preferably b=0. Similarly, c and d areindependently a value from about 0 to about 2, preferably from about 0to about 1. However, the total of b+c+d is at least about 2, preferablythe total of b+c+d is from about 2 to about 3. Each e is independently avalue of 0 or 1, if n is from about 1 to about 4, then e is preferablyequal to 1. Also in Formula IV, x, y, and z is independently a value offrom about 1 to about 120, preferably from about 7 to about 100, andmore preferably from about 7 to about 100, where x+y+z is greater thanabout 20.

[0073] Examples of the multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymerof Formula IV which is especially useful herein includespolyoxypropylene glyceryl ether (n=1, R′=H, b=0, c and d=1, e=1, and x,y, and z independently indicate the degree of polymerization of theirrespective polypropylene glycol-chain segments; available as New PolGP-4000, from Sanyo Kasei, Osaka, Japan), polypropylene trimethylolpropane (n=1, R′=C₂H₅, b=1, c and d=1, e=1, and x, y, and zindependently indicate the degree of polymerization of their respectivepolypropylene glycol-chain segments), polyoxypropylene sorbitol (n=4,each R′=H, b=0, c and d=1, each e=1, and y, z, and each x independentlyindicate the degree of polymerization of their respective polypropyleneglycol-chain segments; available as New Pol SP-4000, from Sanyo Kasei,Osaka, Japan), and PPG-10 butanediol (n=0, c and d=2, and y+z=10;available as Probutyl DB-10, from Croda, Inc., of Parsippany, N.J.,U.S.A.).

[0074] In a preferred embodiment, one or more of the propylene repeatinggroups in the polypropylene glycol is an isopropyl oxide repeatinggroup. More preferably one or more of the propylene oxide repeatinggroups of the polypropylene glycol of Formula III and/or thepolypropylene glycol of Formula IV is an isopropyl oxide repeatinggroup. Even more preferably, substantially all of the propylene oxiderepeating groups of the polypropylene glycol of Formula III and/or thepolypropylene glycol of Formula IV are isopropyl oxide repeating groups.Accordingly, a highly preferred single-polypropylene glycol-chainsegment polymer has the formula:

[0075] wherein a is defined as described above for Formula III.Similarly, a highly preferred multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segmentpolymer has the formula:

[0076] wherein n, R″, b, c, d, e, x, y, and z are defined as above, forFormula IV. It is recognized that the isopropyl oxide repeating groupsmay also correspond either alone, or in combination with the abovedepicted, to:

[0077] Ester Oil

[0078] The hair care composition of the present invention preferablycontains an ester oil therein. The ester oil useful herein is of theformula:

R⁰COOR⁰   (Formula V),

[0079] wherein each R⁰ is independently a C₁-C₂₂ alkyl, and preferablyat least one R⁰ is a C₈-C₂₂ alkyl. Each R⁰ may be either a straight orbranched alkyl chain. If R⁰ is branched, it is preferred that R⁰ havefrom 2 to 4 branches. The HLB value of the ester oil is less than about4, preferably from about 0 to about 3. The ester oil useful hereinshould be easy to formulate, and process. Accordingly, the ester oiltypically has a melting point of less than about 40° C., and ispreferably water-insoluble, and in a liquid form at 25° C.

[0080] The HLB value is a theoretical index value which describes thehydrophilicity-hydrophobicity balance of a specific compound. Generally,it is recognized that the HLB index ranges from 0 (very hydrophobic) to40 (very hydrophilic). The HLB value of the alkyl alkoxylate may befound in tables and charts known in the art, or may be calculated withthe following general equation: HLB=7+Σ(hydrophobic groupvalues)+Σ(hydrophilic group values). The HLB and methods for calculatingthe HLB of a compound are explained in detail in “Surfactant ScienceSeries, Vol. 1: Nonionic Surfactants”, pp. 606-13, M. J. Schick (MarcelDekker, Inc., New York, 1966).

[0081] Unless otherwise noted herein, the ester oils useful herein havea weight average molecular weight of greater than about 70 g/mol,preferably from about 100 g/mol to about 2,000 g/mol, and morepreferably from about 160 g/mol to about 1,200 g/mol are especiallyuseful herein. The preferred ester oil useful herein includespentaerythrityl ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils,glyceryl ester oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] Without intending to be limited by theory, it is believed thatester oils reduce bulk hair volume, and/or provide other hairconditioning benefits. Furthermore, the ester oil herein providesmoisturized feel, smooth feel, and manageability control to the hairwhen the hair is dried, yet does not leave the hair feeling greasy.Thus, with the addition of the ester oil, a composition is obtainedwhich may provide particularly suitable conditioning benefits both whenthe hair is wet and also after it has dried. The ester oil may beincluded at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably fromabout 0.2% to about 10%, and more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%by weight of the composition.

[0083] Pentaerythrityl ester oils useful herein are those of thefollowing formula having a weight average molecular weight of at least800 g/mol:

[0084] wherein R¹, R², R³, and R⁴, independently, are branched,straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groupshaving from 1 to about 30 carbons. Preferably, R¹, R², R³, and R⁴,independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkylgroups having from about 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R¹, R²,R³ and R⁴ are defined so that the weight average molecular weight of thecompound is from about 800 g/mol to about 1,200 g/mol.

[0085] Trimethylol ester oils useful herein are those of the followingformula having a weight average molecular weight of at least 800 g/mol:

[0086] wherein R¹¹ is an alkyl group having from 1 to about 30 carbons,and R¹², R¹³, and R¹⁴, independently, are branched, straight, saturated,or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about30 carbons. Preferably, R¹¹ is ethyl and R¹², R¹³, and R¹⁴,independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkylgroups having from 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R¹¹, R¹², R¹³and R¹⁴ are defined so that the weight average molecular weight of thecompound is from about 800 g/mol to about 1,200 g/mol.

[0087] Particularly preferable ester oils are pentaester oils andtrimethylol ester oils, and more preferably pentaerythrityltetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoleate, trimethylolpropanetriisostearate, trimethylolpropane trioleate, and mixtures thereof. Suchcompounds are available from Kokyo Alcohol (Japan) with the tradenamesKAK P.T.I., and KAK T.T.I., and Shin-nihon Rika (Tokyo, Japan) with thetradenames PTO, and ENUJERUBU TP3SO.

[0088] Citrate ester oils useful herein are those having a weightaverage molecular weight of at least about 500 g/mol having thefollowing formula:

[0089] wherein R²¹ is OH or CH₃COO, and R²², R²³, and R²⁴,independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl,aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons.Preferably, R²¹ is OH, and R²², R²³, and R²⁴, independently, arebranched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylarylgroups having from 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R²¹, R²², R²³and R²⁴ are defined so that the weight average molecular weight of thecompound is at least about 800 g/mol. Particularly useful citrate esteroils herein include triisocetyl citrate with tradename CITMOL 316available from Bernel, triisostearyl citrate with tradename PELEMOL TISCavailable from Phoenix, and trioctyldodecyl citrate with tradenameCITMOL 320 available from Bernel.

[0090] Glyceryl ester oils useful herein are those having a weightaverage molecular weight of at least about 400 g/mol and having thefollowing formula:

[0091] wherein R⁴¹, R⁴², and R⁴³, independently, are branched, straight,saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from1 to about 30 carbons. Preferably, R⁴¹, R⁴², and R⁴³, independently, arebranched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylarylgroups having from 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R⁴¹, R⁴², andR⁴³ are defined so that the weight average molecular weight of thecompound is at least about 500 g/mol.

[0092] Particularly useful glyceryl ester oils herein includecaprylic/capric triglyceride with the tradename Miglyol812, fromDegussa-Hüls AG (Frankfurt, Germany), triisostearin with tradename SUNESPOL G-318 available from Taiyo Kagaku, triolein with tradename CITHROLGTO available from Croda, Inc. (Parsippany, N.J., USA), trilinolein withtradename EFADERMA-F available from Vevy (Genova, Italy), or tradenameEFA-GLYCERIDES from Brooks (South Plainfield, N.J., USA).

[0093] Additional Components

[0094] Certain additional components are preferred in the presentinvention. These include, compounds which may provide, for example, anadditional hair care, and/or hair conditioning benefit when includedherein. Preferred other additional components include alkyl ethoxylate,liquid fatty alcohols and acids, hydrocarbons, silicone compounds,cationic polymers, and mixtures thereof. Liquid fatty alcohols andacids, hydrocarbons which are liquid at room temperature, siliconecompounds which are liquid at room temperature, and mixtures thereof maybe useful as an oily carrier of the present invention. When thesecomponents are used for a carrier, they are comprised in the haircomposition of the present invention at a level of at least about 60%.However, when an aqueous carrier is used, other additional componentsherein are typically used individually at levels from about 0.001% toabout 10.0%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 5.0% by weight of thecomposition.

[0095] Alkyl Ethoxylate

[0096] The hair care composition of the present invention comprises analkyl ethoxylate. The alkyl ethoxylate useful herein has the formula:

R—O—(C₂H₄O)_(n)H,

[0097] wherein R is an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 30carbon atoms, preferably from about 6 to about 22 carbon atoms, and morepreferably from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms; R may be branched,linear, saturated, unsaturated, but is preferably linear and saturated,or unsaturated having about one double bond; n is from about 1 to about10, preferably from about 2 to about 8, and more preferably from about 3to about 6; the weight average molecular weight of the alkyl ethoxylateis less than about 500 g/mol, preferably from about 100 to about 500g/mol, and more preferably from about 200 to about 500 g/mol; and theHLB value of the alkyl ethoxylate is from about 5 to about 12,preferably from about 6 to about 11, and more preferably from about 6 toabout 10.

[0098] As may be seen from the HLB values, such alkyl ethoxylates aremiscible in both oil and water. Furthermore, such alkyl ethoxylatestypically have a melting point of less than about 30° C., preferablyless than about 25° C., and more preferably less than about 20° C., andhave a cloud point (1% solution) of less than about 50° C., preferablyless than about 40° C., and more preferably less than about 35° C.

[0099] The HLB value is a theoretical index value which describes thehydrophilicity-hydrophobicity balance of a specific compound. Generally,it is recognized that the HLB index ranges from 0 (very hydrophobic) to40 (very hydrophilic). The HLB value of the alkyl ethoxylate may befound in tables and charts known in the art, or may be calculated withthe following general equation: HLB=7+Σ(hydrophobic groupvalues)+Σ(hydrophilic group values). The HLB and methods for calculatingthe HLB of a compound are explained in detail in “Surfactant ScienceSeries, Vol. 1: Nonionic Surfactants”, pp. 606-13, M. J. Schick (MarcelDekker, Inc., New York, 1966).

[0100] Without intending to be limited by theory, it is believed thatthe polypropylene glycol herein deposits onto, or is absorbed into hairto act as a humectant/moisturizer, and/or provides one or more otherdesirable hair conditioning benefits.

[0101] Highly preferred examples of the alkyl ethoxylate useful hereininclude, for example, by CTFA name: oleth-5, oleth-3, steareth-5,steareth-4, ceteareth-5, ceteareth-4, and ceteareth-3, as well asmixtures of C₉₋₁₁EO5, mixtures of C₉₋₁₁EO2.5, mixtures of C₁₂₋₁₃EO3,mixtures of C₁₁₋₁₃EO5, and mixtures thereof. These alkyl ethoxylates areavailable from, for example, Croda, Inc., of Parsippany, N.J., U.S.A.,Shell Chemical of U.S.A., BASF of Germany, Mitsubishi Chemical of Tokyo,Japan, and Nikko Chemical of Tokyo, Japan. Such alkyl ethoxylates areespecially preferred for use in rinse-off hair conditioningcompositions.

[0102] The alkyl ethoxylate is preferably present in the hair carecomposition at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferablyfrom about 0.2% to about 15%, and even more preferably from about 0.5%to about 10%, by weight of the hair care composition. If the hair carecomposition is a rinse-off hair conditioning composition, then the alkylethoxylate is preferably present at a level of at least about 1%, morepreferably from about 2% to about 20%, and even more preferably fromabout 3% to about 10%, by weight of the rinse-off hair conditioningcomposition.

[0103] If the hair care composition is intended for use as a rinse-offhair conditioning composition, it is highly preferred that the alkylethoxylate have a cloud point of less than about 40° C. Withoutintending to be limited by theory, it is believed that thissignificantly improves the deposition efficiency of the alkyl ethoxylateonto hair.

[0104] Liquid Fatty Alcohol and Fatty Acid

[0105] The liquid fatty alcohols useful herein include those having fromabout 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbonatoms. These liquid fatty alcohols maybe straight or branched chainalcohols and may be saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferablyunsaturated alcohols. Solid fatty compounds are those fatty alcoholswhich, when in their substantially pure forms, are solid at 25° C.,while liquid fatty alcohols are those fatty alcohols which are liquid at25° C. Nonlimiting examples of these compounds include oleyl alcohol,palmitoleic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol and mixturesthereof. While poly fatty alcohols are useful herein, mono fattyalcohols are preferred.

[0106] The fatty acids useful herein include those having from about 10to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbonatoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. Thesefatty acids can be straight or branched chain acids and can be saturatedor unsaturated. Suitable fatty acids include, for example, oleic acid,linoleic acid, isostearic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid,ethyl linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, and ricinolic acid.

[0107] The fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives aredefined herein to include, for example, esters of fatty acids,alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkyl ethersof alkoxylated fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. Nonlimitingexamples of fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives,include, for example, methyl linoleate, ethyl linoleate, isopropyllinoleate, isodecyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, ethyl oleate, octyldodecyloleate, oleyl oleate, decyl oleate, butyl oleate, methyl oleate,octyldodecyl stearate, octyldodecyl isostearate, octyldodecylisopalmitate, octyl isopelargonate, octyl pelargonate, hexylisostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isodecyl isononanoate, isopropylisostearate, ethyl isostearate, methyl isostearate and oleth-2.

[0108] Commercially available liquid fatty alcohols and theirderivatives useful herein include: oleyl alcohol with tradename UNJECOL90BHR available from Shin-nihon Rika, various liquid esters withtradenames SCHERCEMOL series available from Scher, and hexyl isostearatewith a tradename HIS and isopropyl isostearate having a tradename ZPISavailable from Kokyu Alcohol.

[0109] Hydrocarbon

[0110] The hydrocarbons useful herein include straight chain, cyclic,and branched chain hydrocarbons which can be either saturated orunsaturated, so long as they have a melting point of not more than about25° C. These hydrocarbons have from about 12 to about 40 carbon atoms,preferably from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, and preferably fromabout 12 to about 22 carbon atoms. Also encompassed herein are polymerichydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as polymers of C₂₋₆ alkenylmonomers. These polymers can be straight or branched chain polymers. Thestraight chain polymers will typically be relatively short in length,having a total number of carbon atoms as described above. The branchedchain polymers can have substantially higher chain lengths. The numberaverage molecular weight of such materials can vary widely, but willtypically be up to about 500 g/mol, preferably from about 200 g/mol toabout 400 g/mol, and more preferably from about 300 g/mol to about 350g/mol. Also useful herein are the various grades of mineral oils.Mineral oils are liquid mixtures of hydrocarbons that are obtained frompetroleum. Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbon materials includeparaffin oil, mineral oil, dodecane, isododecane, hexadecane,isohexadecane, eicosene, isoeicosene, tridecane, tetradecane,polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof. Preferred for useherein are hydrocarbons selected from the group consisting of mineraloil, poly α-olefin oils such as isododecane, isohexadecane, polybutene,polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof.

[0111] Poly α-olefin oils useful herein are those derived from 1-alkenemonomers having from about 6 to about 16 carbons, preferably from about6 to about 12 carbons atoms. Nonlimiting examples of 1-alkene monomersuseful for preparing the poly α-olefin oils include 1-hexene, 1-octene,1-decene, 1-dodecene, 1-tetradecene, 1-hexadecene, branched isomers suchas 4-methyl-1-pentene, and mixtures thereof. Preferred 1-alkene monomersuseful for preparing the poly α-olefin oils are 1-octene, 1-decene,1-dodecene, 1-tetradecene, 1-hexadecene, and mixtures thereof. Polyα-olefin oils useful herein further have a viscosity of from about 1 toabout 35,000 cps, a weight average molecular weight of from about 200g/mol to about 60,000 g/mol, and a polydispersity of no more than about3.

[0112] Poly α-olefin oils having a weight average molecular weight of atleast about 800 g/mol are useful herein, to provide long lastingmoisturized feel to the hair. However, poly α-olefin oils having aweight average molecular weight of less than about 800 g/mol are alsouseful herein, to provide a smooth, light, clean feel to the hair.Particularly useful poly α-olefin oils herein include polydecenes withtradename PURESYN 6 having a weight average molecular weight of about500 and PURESYN 100 having a weight average molecular weight of over3000 g/mol available from Mobil Chemical Co.

[0113] Commercially available hydrocarbons useful herein includeisododecane, isohexadecane, and isoeicosene with tradenames PERMETHYL99A, PERMETHYL 101A, and PERMETHYL 1082, available from Presperse (SouthPlainfield, N.J., USA), a copolymer of isobutene and normal butene withtradenames INDOPOL H-100 available from Amoco Chemicals (Chicago, Ill.,USA), mineral oil with tradename BENOL available from Witco Chemicals,isoparaffin with tradename ISOPAR from Exxon Chemical Co. (Houston,Tex., USA), and polydecene with tradename PURESYN 6 from Mobil ChemicalCo. (Houston, Tex., USA).

[0114] Silicone Compound

[0115] The silicone compounds useful herein include volatile soluble orinsoluble, or nonvolatile soluble or insoluble silicone conditioningagents. By soluble what is meant is that the silicone compound ismiscible with the carrier of the composition so as to form part of thesame phase. By insoluble what is meant is that the silicone forms aseparate, discontinuous phase from the carrier, such as in the form ofan emulsion or a suspension of droplets of the silicone. The siliconecompounds herein may be made by any suitable method known in the art,including emulsion polymerization. The silicone compounds may further beincorporated in the present composition in the form of an emulsion,wherein the emulsion is made my mechanical mixing, or in the stage ofsynthesis through emulsion polymerization, with or without the aid of asurfactant selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants,cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0116] The silicone compounds for use herein will preferably have aviscosity of from about 1,000 to about 2,000,000 centistokes at 25° C.,more preferably from about 10,000 to about 1,800,000, and even morepreferably from about 100,000 to about 1,500,000. The viscosity can bemeasured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set forth in DowCorning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, Jul. 20, 1970. Silicone compoundof high molecular weight may be made by emulsion polymerization.Suitable silicone fluids include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, andmixtures thereof. Other nonvolatile silicone compounds having hairconditioning properties can also be used.

[0117] The silicone compounds herein also include polyalkyl or polyarylsiloxanes with the following structure (I)

[0118] wherein R¹²³ is alkyl or aryl, and x is an integer from about 7to about 8,000. Z⁸ represents groups which block the ends of thesilicone chains. The alkyl or aryl groups substituted on the siloxanechain (R¹²³) or at the ends of the siloxane chains Z⁸ can have anystructure as long as the resulting silicone remains fluid at roomtemperature, is dispersible, is neither irritating, toxic nor otherwiseharmful when applied to the hair, is compatible with the othercomponents of the composition, is chemically stable under normal use andstorage conditions, and is capable of being deposited on and conditionsthe hair. Suitable Z⁸ groups include hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy,propoxy, and aryloxy. The two R¹²³ groups on the silicon atom mayrepresent the same group or different groups. Preferably, the two R¹²³groups represent the same group. Suitable R¹²³ groups include methyl,ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl. The preferredsilicone compounds are polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, andpolymethylphenylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxane, which is also known asdimethicone, is especially preferred. The polyalkylsiloxanes that can beused include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes. These siliconecompounds are available, for example, from the General Electric Company(Waterford, N.Y., USA) in their Viscasil® and SF 96 series, and from DowCorning Corp. (Midland, Mich., USA) in their Dow Corning 200 series andBY22-067.

[0119] Polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids can also be used and include, forexample, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, forexample, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenylfluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.

[0120] Especially preferred, for enhancing the shine characteristics ofhair, are highly arylated silicone compounds, such as highly phenylatedpolyethyl silicone having refractive index of about 1.46 or higher,especially about 1.52 or higher. When these high refractive indexsilicone compounds are used, they should be mixed with a spreadingagent, such as a surfactant or a silicone resin, as described below todecrease the surface tension and enhance the film forming ability of thematerial.

[0121] The silicone compounds that can be used include, for example, apolypropylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane although ethyleneoxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide can also beused. The ethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide level should besufficiently low so as not to interfere with the dispensabilitycharacteristics of the silicone. These material are also known asdimethicone copolyols.

[0122] Other silicone compounds include amino substituted materials.Suitable alkylamino substituted silicone compounds include thoserepresented by the following structure (II)

[0123] wherein R¹²⁴ is H, CH₃ or OH, p¹, p², q¹ and q² are integerswhich depend on the molecular weight, the weight average molecularweight being approximately between 5,000 and 10,000. This polymer isalso known as “amodimethicone”. These Amodimethicones are available, forexample, from Dow Corning as SM8704C.

[0124] Suitable amino substituted silicone fluids include thoserepresented by the formula (III)

(R¹²⁵)_(a)G_(3−a)-Si—(OSiG₂)_(p3)-(OSiG_(b)(R¹²⁵)_(2−b))_(p4)—O—SiG_(3−a)(R¹²⁵)_(a)  (III)

[0125] in which G is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogen,phenyl, OH, C₁-C₈ alkyl and preferably methyl; a denotes 0 or an integerfrom 1 to 3, and preferably equals 0; b denotes 0 or 1 and preferablyequals 1; the sum p³+p⁴ is a number from 1 to 2,000 and preferably from50 to 150, p³ being able to denote a number from 0 to 1,999 andpreferably from 49 to 149 and p⁴ being able to denote an integer from 1to 2,000 and preferably from 1 to 10; R¹²⁵ is a monovalent radical offormula C_(q3)H_(2q3)L in which q³ is an integer from 2 to 8 and L ischosen from the groups

[0126] —N(R¹²⁶)CH₂—CH₂—N(R¹²⁶)₂

[0127] —N(R¹²⁶)₂

[0128] —N(R¹²⁶)₃X′

[0129] —N(R¹²⁶)CH₂—CH₂—NR¹²⁶H₂X′

[0130] in which R¹²⁶ is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogen,phenyl, benzyl, a saturated hydrocarbon radical, preferably an alkylradical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and X′ denotes a halideion.

[0131] An especially preferred amino substituted silicone correspondingto formula (III) is the polymer known as “trimethylsilylamodimethicone”wherein R¹²⁴ is CH₃.

[0132] Other amino substituted silicone polymers useful herein includecationic amino substituted silicones represented by the formula (V):

[0133] where R¹²⁸ denotes a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1to 18 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl or alkenyl radical such asmethyl; R¹²⁹ denotes a hydrocarbon radical, preferably a C₁-C₁₈ alkyleneradical or a C₁-C₁₈, and more preferably C₁-C₈, alkyleneoxy radical; Q⁻is a halide ion, preferably chloride; p⁵ denotes an average statisticalvalue from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 8; p⁶ denotes an averagestatistical value from 20 to 200, and preferably from 20 to 50. Apreferred polymer of this class is available from Union Carbide underthe name “UCAR SILICONE ALE 56.”

[0134] References disclosing suitable nonvolatile dispersed siliconecompounds include U.S. Pat. No. 2,826,551 to Geen; U.S. Pat. No.3,964,500 to Drakoff, issued Jun. 22, 1976; U.S. Pat. No. 4,364,837 toPader, issued Dec. 21, 1982; and British Patent No. 849,433 to Woolston.“Silicon Compounds” distributed by Petrarch Systems, Inc., 1984,provides an extensive, though not exclusive, listing of suitablesilicone compounds.

[0135] Another nonvolatile dispersed silicone that can be especiallyuseful is a silicone gum. The term “silicone gum”, as used herein, meansa polyorganosiloxane material having a viscosity at 25° C. of greaterthan or equal to 1,000,000 centistokes. It is recognized that thesilicone gums described herein can also have some overlap with theabove-disclosed silicone compounds. This overlap is not intended as alimitation on any of these materials. Silicone gums are described byPetrarch, and others including U.S. Pat. No. 4,152,416 to Spitzer, etal., issued May 1, 1979 and Noll, Walter, Chemistry and Technology ofSilicones, New York: Academic Press 1968. Also describing silicone gumsare General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE 33,SE 54 and SE 76. The “silicone gums” will typically have a weightaverage molecular weight in excess of about 200,000, generally betweenabout 200,000 and about 1,000,000. Specific examples includepolydimethylsiloxane, poly(dimethylsiloxanemethylvinylsiloxane)copolymer, poly(dimethylsiloxane diphenylsiloxanemethylvinylsiloxane)copolymer and mixtures thereof.

[0136] Also useful are silicone resins, which are highly crosslinkedpolymeric siloxane systems. The crosslinking is introduced through theincorporation of tri-functional and tetra-functional silanes withmono-functional or di-functional, or both, silanes during manufacture ofthe silicone resin. As is well understood in the art, the degree ofcrosslinking that is required in order to result in a silicone resinwill vary according to the specific silane units incorporated into thesilicone resin. In general, silicone materials which have a sufficientlevel of trifunctional and tetrafunctional siloxane monomer units, andhence, a sufficient level of crosslinking, such that they dry down to arigid, or hard, film are considered to be silicone resins. The ratio ofoxygen atoms to silicon atoms is indicative of the level of crosslinkingin a particular silicone material. Silicone materials which have atleast about 1.1 oxygen atoms per silicon atom will generally be siliconeresins herein. Preferably, the ratio of oxygen:silicon atoms is at leastabout 1.2:1.0. Silanes used in the manufacture of silicone resinsinclude monomethyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, monophenyl-, diphenyl-,methylphenyl-, monovinyl-, and methylvinylchlorosilanes, andtetrachlorosilane, with the methyl substituted silanes being mostcommonly utilized. Preferred resins are offered by General Electric asGE SS4230 and SS4267. Commercially available silicone resins willgenerally be supplied in a dissolved form in a low viscosity volatile ornonvolatile silicone fluid. The silicone resins for use herein should besupplied and incorporated into the present compositions in suchdissolved form, as will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art.Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the silicone resinscan enhance deposition of other silicone compounds on the hair and canenhance the glossiness of hair with high refractive index volumes.

[0137] Other useful silicone resins are silicone resin powders such asthe material given the CTFA designation polymethylsilsequioxane, whichis commercially available as Tospearl™ from Toshiba Silicones.

[0138] The method of manufacturing these silicone compounds, can befound in Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15,Second Edition, pp. 204-308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1989.

[0139] Silicone materials and silicone resins in particular, canconveniently be identified according to a shorthand nomenclature systemwell known to those skilled in the art as the “MDTQ” nomenclature. Underthis system, the silicone is described according to the presence ofvarious siloxane monomer units which make up the silicone. Briefly, thesymbol M denotes the mono-functional unit (CH₃)₃SiO_(0.5); D denotes thedifunctional unit (CH₃)₂SiO; T denotes the trifunctional unit(CH₃)SiO_(1.5); and Q denotes the quadri- or tetra-functional unit SiO2.Primes of the unit symbols, e.g., M′, D′, T′, and Q′ denote substituentsother than methyl, and must be specifically defined for each occurrence.Typical alternate substituents include groups such as vinyl, phenyl,amino, hydroxyl, etc. The molar ratios of the various units, either interms of subscripts to the symbols indicating the total number of eachtype of unit in the silicone, or an average thereof, or as specificallyindicated ratios in combination with the weight average molecularweight, complete the description of the silicone material under the MDTQsystem. Higher relative molar amounts of T, Q, T′ and/or Q′ to D, D′, Mand/or or M′ in a silicone resin is indicative of higher levels ofcrosslinking. As discussed before, however, the overall level ofcrosslinking can also be indicated by the oxygen to silicon ratio.

[0140] The silicone resins for use herein which are preferred are MQ,MT, MTQ, MQ and MDTQ resins. Thus, the preferred silicone substituent ismethyl. Especially preferred are MQ resins wherein the M:Q ratio is fromabout 0.5:1.0 to about 1.5:1.0 and the weight average molecular weightof the resin is from about 1000 to about 10,000.

[0141] Commercially available silicone compounds which are useful hereininclude Dimethicone with tradename D-130, cetyl Dimethicone withtradename DC2502, stearyl Dimethicone with tradename DC2503, emulsifiedpolydimethyl siloxanes with tradenames DC1664 and DC1784, and alkylgrafted copolymer silicone emulsion with tradename DC2-2845; allavailable from Dow Corning Corporation (Midland, Mich., USA), emulsionpolymerized Dimethiconol available from Toshiba Silicone Co., Ltd.(Tokyo, Japan) as described in GB application 2,303,857, mixture ofDimethicone and Dimethiconol with tradename DCQ2-1403, and mixture ofCyclomethicone and Dimethiconol with tradename DRQ2-1401, both mixturesavailable from Dow Corning.

[0142] Cationic Polymer

[0143] The hair care compositions of the present invention may containone or more cationic polymers. As used herein, the term “polymer”includes materials whether made by polymerization of one type of monomeror made by two (i.e., copolymers) or more types of monomers. Preferably,the cationic polymer is a water-soluble cationic polymer. As usedherein, the term “water soluble” cationic polymer, indicates a polymerwhich is sufficiently soluble in water to form a substantially clearsolution to the naked eye at a concentration of 0.1% in water (distilledor equivalent) at 25° C. The preferred cationic polymer will besufficiently soluble to form a substantially clear solution at 0.5%concentration, more preferably at 1.0% concentration. If present, thecationic polymer is typically at a level of preferably from about 0.5%to about 5%, more preferably from about 1% to about 3% by weight of thecomposition.

[0144] The cationic polymers herein will generally have a weight averagemolecular weight which is at least about 5,000, typically from about10,000 to about 10 million. Preferably, the weight average molecularweight is from about 100,000 to about 2 million. The cationic polymerwill generally have cationic nitrogen-containing moieties such asquaternary ammonium or cationic amino moieties, and mixtures thereof.

[0145] The cationic nitrogen-containing moiety will be present generallyas a substituent, on a fraction of the total monomer units of thecationic hair conditioning polymers. Thus, the cationic polymer maycomprise copolymers, terpolymers, etc. of quaternary ammonium orcationic amine-substituted monomer units and other non-cationic unitsreferred to herein as spacer monomer units. Such polymers are known inthe art, and a variety may be found in the CTFA Cosmetic IngredientDictionary, 3rd edition, edited by Estrin, Crosley, and Haynes, (TheCosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C.,1982).

[0146] The cationic charge density of the cationic polymer is preferablyat least about 0.1 meq/gram, more preferably at least about 0.5meq/gram, even more preferably at least about 1.1 meq/gram, and stillmore preferably at least about 1.2 meq/gram. Cationic charge density ofthe cationic polymer may be determined according to the Kjeldahl Method.Those skilled in the art will recognize that the charge density ofamino-containing polymers may vary depending upon pH and the isoelectricpoint of the amino groups. The charge density should be within the abovelimits at the pH of intended use.

[0147] Any anionic counterion may be utilized for the cationic polymersso long as the water solubility criteria is met. Suitable counter-ionsinclude, for example, halides (e.g., Cl, Br, I, or F, preferably Cl, Br,or I), sulfate, and methylsulfate.

[0148] Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers ofvinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammoniumfunctionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as acrylamide,methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamides, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone,and vinyl pyrrolidone. The cationic amines may be primary, secondary, ortertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of thecomposition. In general, secondary and tertiary amines, especiallytertiary amines, are preferred. The alkyl and dialkyl substitutedmonomers preferably have C₁-C₇ alkyl groups, more preferably C₁-C₃ alkylgroups. Other suitable spacer monomers include vinyl esters, vinylalcohol (made by hydrolysis of polyvinyl acetate), maleic anhydride,propylene glycol, and ethylene glycol.

[0149] Amine-substituted vinyl monomers may be polymerized in the amineform, and then optionally may be converted to ammonium by aquaternization reaction. Amines may also be similarly quaternizedsubsequent to formation of the polymer. For example, tertiary aminefunctionalities may be quaternized by reaction with a salt of theformula R′X wherein R′ is a short chain alkyl, preferably a C₁-C₇ alkyl,more preferably a C₁-C₃ alkyl, and X⁻ is an anion which forms a watersoluble salt with the quaternized ammonium.

[0150] Suitable cationic amino and quaternary ammonium monomers include,for example, vinyl compounds substituted with dialkylaminoalkylacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate,monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammoniumsalt, trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, diallyl quaternary ammoniumsalts, and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers having cyclic cationicnitrogen-containing rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium, andquaternized pyrrolidone, e.g., alkyl vinyl imidazolium, alkyl vinylpyridinium, alkyl vinyl pyrrolidone salts. The alkyl portions of thesemonomers are preferably lower alkyls such as the C₁-C₃ alkyls, morepreferably C₁ and C₂ alkyls. Suitable amine-substituted vinyl monomersfor use herein include dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide, and dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide, wherein the alkyl groups are preferably C₁-C₇hydrocarbyls, more preferably C₁-C₃, alkyls.

[0151] The cationic polymers useful herein may comprise mixtures ofmonomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substitutedmonomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.

[0152] Suitable cationic hair conditioning polymers include, forexample: copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (referred to inthe industry by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association,“CTFA”, as Polyquaternium-16), such as those commercially available fromBASF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, N.J., USA) under the LUVIQUATtradename (e.g., LUVIQUAT FC 370); copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidoneand dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to in the industry by CTFAas Polyquaternium-11) such as those commercially available from GafCorporation (Wayne, N.J., USA) under the GAFQUAT tradename (e.g.,GAFQUAT 755N); cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers,including, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer andcopolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referredto in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7,respectively; and mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo- andco-polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbonatoms, as described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,009,256 issued to Nowack, et.al., on Feb. 22, 1977.

[0153] Other useful cationic polymers include cationic polysaccharidepolymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starchderivatives. Cationic polysaccharide polymer materials suitable for useherein include those of the formula:

[0154] wherein: A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starchor cellulose anhydroglucose residual, R is an alkylene oxyalkylene,polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof, R¹,R², and R³ independently are alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl,alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18carbon atoms, and the total number of carbon atoms for each cationicmoiety (i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R¹, R² and R³) preferably beingabout 20 or less, and X⁻ is an anionic counterion, as previouslydescribed.

[0155] Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison,N.J., USA) in their Polymer JR® and LR® series of polymers, as salts ofhydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substitutedepoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10.Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternaryammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethylammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) asPolyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp.(Edison, N.J., USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200®.

[0156] Other cationic polymers that may be used include cationic guargum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride(commercially available from Celanese Corp. in their Jaguar R series).Other materials include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers(e.g., as described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,962,418, incorporated herein byreference), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g., asdescribed in U.S. Pat. No. 3,958,581, incorporated herein by reference.)

[0157] Other Additional Components

[0158] The hair care compositions herein may further contain otheradditional components, which may be selected by the artisan according tothe desired characteristics of the final product and which are suitablefor rendering the compositions more cosmetically or aestheticallyacceptable or to provide them with additional usage benefits.

[0159] Additional examples of preferred other additional componentswhich may be formulated into the present compositions include: otherconditioning agents such as hydrolysed collagen with tradename Peptein2000 available from Hormel, panthenol available from Roche, panthenylethyl ether available from Roche, hydrolysed keratin, proteins, herbalextracts such as Polygonatum multiflori extract, and nutrients; vitaminsand/or amino acids, such as vitamin E with tradename Emix-d availablefrom Eisai, tyrosine methyl ether, histidine, and lysine hydrochloride;surfactants such as a cationic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, anamphoteric surfactant, and mixtures thereof; preservatives such asbenzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and imidazolidinyl urea;pH adjusting agents, such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid,phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; salts, in general,such as potassium acetate and sodium chloride; coloring agents, such asany of the FD&C or D&C dyes; hair oxidizing (bleaching) agents, such ashydrogen peroxide, perborate and persulfate salts; hair reducing agentssuch as the thioglycolates; perfumes; sequestering agents, such asdisodium ethylenediamine tetra-acetate; ultraviolet and infraredscreening and absorbing agents, such as optical brighteners and octylsalicylate; and antidandruff agents, such as zinc pyrithione, piroctoneolamine, 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide (trichlosan), triclocarban andsalicylic acid.

[0160] Manufacturing Process

[0161] The hair care compositions of the present invention can beconveniently and inexpensively by any process known in the art, and ispreferably made by combining the polyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine withthe gel matrix concurrently with the gel matrix, or after the gel matrixreaches a suitable phase condition. To form a highly preferred gelmatrix, water is typically heated to at least about 70° C., preferablybetween about 80° C. and about 90° C. The cationic surfactant and thesolid fatty compound are combined with the water to form a mixture. Thepolyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine can be added at this step, for acomposition having improved stability. The temperature of the mixture ispreferably maintained at a temperature higher than both the meltingtemperature of the cationic surfactant and the melting temperature ofthe solid fatty compound, and the entire mixture is homogenized. Aftermixing until no solids are observed, the mixture is gradually cooled(e.g., at a rate of about 2° C./minute) to a temperature below 60° C.,preferably less than about 55° C. During this gradual cooling process, asignificant viscosity increase is observed at between about 55° C. andabout 75° C. This indicates the formation of the highly preferred gelmatrix. The polyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine can be alternatively addedat this stage, with any other additional components, and mixed into thegel matrix, and cooled to room temperature.

[0162] The hair care composition made by the above described processescontaining the polyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine possesses good stabilityand excellent performance.

[0163] Method of Use

[0164] The hair care composition of the present invention is suitablefor use as, for example, hair cosmetic compositions, hair stylingcompositions, leave-on and/or rinse-off hair conditioning compositions.These hair care compositions are used in conventional ways to providethe conditioning, cleaning, styling, and/or other benefits of thepresent invention. Such method of use depends upon the type ofcomposition employed but generally involves application of an effectiveamount of the product to the hair, which may then be rinsed from thehair (as in the case of hair rinses) or allowed to remain on the hair(as in the case of gels, lotions, and creams). “Effective amount” meansan amount sufficient enough to provide the desired bulk hair reductionbenefit. In general, from about 1 g to about 50 g is applied to thehair, and/or the scalp. The composition may be distributed throughoutthe hair, typically by rubbing or massaging the hair and scalp, or thecomposition may be selectively applied to certain parts of the hair.Preferably, the composition is applied to wet or damp hair and rinsedwith abundant water prior to drying of the hair. After such compositionsare applied to the hair, the hair is dried and styled in accordance withthe preference of the user. In the alternative, such as for a hairstyling composition, it may be applied to dry hair, and the hair is thencombed or styled in accordance with the preference of the user.

[0165] Image Analysis Protocol

[0166] The Image Analysis Protocol is a system and procedure which isdesigned to digitally measure and analyze the components of bulk hairarea and flyaway hair area, which in turn form the total hair area. Thisprotocol provides a quantifiable, repeatable method for accuratelydistinguishing, measuring, and comparing total hair area, flyaway hairarea, and bulk hair area before and after treatment with a hair carecomposition. This total hair area, flyaway hair area, and bulk hair areadirectly correlate with total hair volume, flyaway hair volume, and bulkhair volume, respectively. The hair care compositions of the presentinvention provide a significant, noticeable reduction in the bulk hairarea, preferably by at least about 10% as measured by the methoddescribed, below. The hair care compositions of the present inventionpreferably provide a significant, noticeable reduction in all threetypes of hair area, namely, reduces bulk hair area by at least about10%, more preferably by at least about 15%, reduces flyaway hair area byat least about 20%, more preferably by at least about 30%, and reducestotal hair area by at least about 12.5%, more preferably by at leastabout 20%, as measured by the method described, below.

[0167] It has been found that a reduction in bulk hair area correlateswith one or more noticeable consumer-desirable benefits, such asenhanced manageability, and/or improved combability. For example, it isbelieved that reduced bulk hair area correlates with moisturized hairwhich is softer, more plastic, smooth, and flexible than hair which isdried out. When hair is moisturized, the bulk hair area is reduced,because the hair is better aligned with other hairs and has less spacein-between the individual hairs. Moisturized hair is also easier to comband manage.

[0168] Referring to the drawing, FIG. 1 shows a top view of a preferredembodiment of the Image Analysis System useful herein. The ImageAnalysis System, 10, consists of a white screen, 12, lighting equipment,14, a sample holder, 16, a high-resolution digital camera, 18, and apersonal computer, 20. The sample holder, 16, is placed between thewhite screen, 12, and the high-resolution digital camera, 18. The sampleholder, 16, is typically a clip or clamp which stably suspends a hairsample, 22, about 40 cm in front of the white screen, 12. The sampleholder, 16, is typically about 80 cm from the high-resolution digitalcamera, 18, and positioned above the high-resolution camera's field ofview, so that it is not visible in the captured images.

[0169] The white screen, 12, is a matte-finish (e.g., non-glare)white-colored screen which is illuminated to provide a constant andrepeatable background against which the hair sample, 22, is measured. Asthe difference between bulk hair area and-flyaway hair area is judgedaccording to the brightness of the image (see below), it is importantthat the hair sample be photographed in front of a background which hasa constant brightness. As seen in FIG. 1, the preferred lightingequipment, 14, consists of twin photography lights located on each sideof the sample, and pointing towards the white screen. Each of theselights is preferably a twin florescent tube light contained within alighting fixture, and is typically from about 20 cm to about 60 cm tothe side of the sample holder, 16. This places them far enough away fromthe hair sample, 22, so that they are not visible by the high-resolutiondigital camera, 18. This assures that the captured image will onlyinclude the image of the hair sample, 22, and will not include, forexample, the back-side of the lighting equipment, 14. Therefore, thelighting equipment, 14, should not interfere with or block the pictureto be taken. Also, in such a configuration, the hair sample, 22, is notdirectly illuminated by the lighting equipment, 14. Instead, light isfirst reflected from the white screen, 12, and then passes through thehair sample, 22, in order to reach the high-resolution digital camera,18. The high-resolution digital camera, 18, is focused on the hairsample, 22, and not the white screen, 12. For ease of use, thehigh-resolution digital camera, 18, is connected to a personal computer,20, and automatically transfers the captured image to the computer'simaging software. Such an arrangement provides a precise picture of theprofile of the hair sample, 22, and avoids any glare and/or shadowswhich could interfere with measurement and analysis of the hair sample,22.

[0170] Preferably, the Image Analysis System should be located away fromair currents or other forces which would disturb the hair sample, and isin a controlled temperature and humidity environment, so as to ensurerepeatable results. The high-resolution digital camera (e.g., ModelHC-2500 3-CCD from Fujifilm Co., of Tokyo, Japan) has a resolution of atleast 1280 horizontal pixels, and 1000 vertical pixels. Thehigh-resolution digital camera is calibrated to a linear gain, so thatthe incremental difference between all brightness values (an 8-bit,0-255 brightness scale) is equal. Such a calibration may be achievedvia, for example, utilizing a standard gray-scale calibration celland/or the high-resolution digital camera's internal look-up-table(LUT). For calibration purposes, the white screen (when lit with thelighting equipment) should have a brightness value of greater than about245, preferably from about 250 to about 255.

[0171] The typical hair sample consists of 15 cm (5 g) straight blackAsian hair switches (available from Kawamuraya Co., Osaka, Japan) orstraight brown Caucasian hair switches (available from InternationalHair Importers & products Inc., Bellerose, N.Y., U.S.A.). Straight blackAsian hair switches are preferred, because their contrast against thewhite screen is more easily observable. The measurements using the ImageAnalysis Protocol are significantly easier and more reproducible whenblack hair switches are used. However, the hair area reduction benefits,and the corresponding hair volume reduction benefits, of the presentinvention are applicable to all types of hair switches. Further, it hasbeen shown that the results achieved with hair switches are comparableto the results achieved during actual use on people.

[0172] The hair sample is prepared as follows:

[0173] 1) Wet hair sample with warm water (38° C.) for 30 seconds.

[0174] 2) Apply 1 ml of ammonium lauryl sulfate solution to the hairsample and lather for 30 seconds.

[0175] 3) Rinse the hair sample for 60 seconds.

[0176] 4) Soak the hair sample in warm water for 24 hours.

[0177] 5) Apply 1 ml of ammonium lauryl sulfate solution to the hairsample and lather for 30 seconds.

[0178] 6) Rinse the hair sample for 30 seconds.

[0179] 7) Apply 1 ml of ammonium lauryl sulfate solution to the hairsample and lather for 30 seconds.

[0180] 8) Rinse the hair sample for 60 seconds.

[0181] 9) For a treated hair sample: apply 1 ml of a hair carecomposition to be tested to the hair sample.

[0182] 10) For a treated hair sample: rinse off the hair sample for 10seconds.

[0183] 11) Comb through the front of the hair sample 5 times.

[0184] 12) Comb through the back of the hair sample 5 times.

[0185] 13) Squeeze off excess water from the hair sample and make thecross-section round.

[0186] 14) Leave the hair sample in a 21° C./65% relative humidity roomand dry for 24 hours.

[0187] 15) The hair sample is then ready to be measured by the ImageAnalysis System.

[0188] Steps 9 and 10 are only performed for the treated hair samples.To compare the effect of a hair care composition on the bulk hair area,flyaway hair area, and total hair area, an “untreated picture” is firsttaken of a hair sample, and then a “treated picture” is taken. Theuntreated and treated bulk hair areas, flyaway hair areas, and totalhair areas shown in the pictures, are then compared. Typically, the samehair switch is first used for the untreated hair sample, and then usedfor the treated hair sample, according to the procedure described above.Using the same hair switch minimizes sample-to-sample variations.

[0189] Once a hair sample (either treated, or untreated), 22, isprepared, it is placed on the sample holder, 16, in front of the whitescreen, 12. The distance from the high-resolution digital camera, 18,and the hair sample, 22, should be the same for both the untreated andtreated pictures. For both the untreated and treated pictures, the hairsample is aligned so that the widest profile (according to the bottomend of the hair sample) is captured by the high-resolution digitalcamera. This alignment approximates the way hair is arranged on thehead, and therefore provides the most accurate view of the effect onhair area (and therefore hair volume), after treatment. This alsoassures an accurate measurement of the bulk hair area reduction, flyawayhair area reduction, and/or total hair area reduction effects.

[0190] Once the hair is essentially motionless, an 8-bit, gray-scalepicture is taken with the high-resolution digital camera, 18. Typically,the high-resolution digital camera, 18, assigns each pixel a brightnessvalue of from 0 (pure black) to 255 (pure white). The picture is thentransferred to the personal computer, 20. Alternatively, but lesspreferably, the personal computer may assign each pixel a brightnessvalue from 0 to 255. Such a picture is also referred to as a “capturedimage,” and may be saved electronically as, for example, a TIFF (TaggedImage File Format) file, for future reference. In the captured image,each hair sample appears as gray-to-black on a white background. Theimaging software (e.g., Optimas v. 6.2, available from Media Cyberneticsof Silver Springs, Md., U.S.A.) then analyzes the captured image,pixel-by-pixel. The imaging software uses the brightness value assignedto each pixel by the camera to classify each pixel as either black(brightness value=0-120), gray (brightness value=121-235), or white(brightness value=236-255). The imaging software then defines “bulkhair” in the captured image as the largest continuous region bounded byblack lines. The “flyaway hair” is defined as black, gray, and whiteregions bounded by one or more gray lines, excluding the bulk hair. Theterm “bounded” as used herein with respect to the imaging softwareindicates that the referred-to-area is completely surrounded by at leastone line of the specified shade.

[0191] The imaging software then calculates the area of each region,typically in cm², to find the bulk hair area and the flyaway hair area.The total hair area is the sum of the bulk hair area and the flyawayhair area. Thus, the bulk hair area and/or the flyaway hair area mayalso be calculated as a percentage of the total hair area. In apreferred embodiment, the imaging software automatically sets theuntreated total hair area equal to a value of 1.0, and normalizes theother values, accordingly. The imaging software may also outline and/orcolor code the bulk hair area and/or flyaway hair area for easyreference.

[0192] The reduction in hair volume after treatment is based oncomparing the data obtained from analyzing the treated and untreatedhair samples. The hair areas are calculated for the untreated total hairarea (UTA), the untreated bulk hair area (UBA), and the untreatedflyaway hair area (UFA). These are then compared to the calculated hairareas for the treated total hair area (TTA), the treated bulk hair area(TBA), and the treated flyaway hair area (TFA). The reduction in bulkhair area after treatment corresponds to a reduction in the bulk hairvolume, and is calculated according to the following equation:

bulk hair area reduction=100*[1−(TBA/UBA)].

[0193] Similarly, the percent reduction in flyaway hair area aftertreatment corresponds to a reduction in the flyaway hair volume, and iscalculated according to the following equation:

flyaway hair area reduction=100*[1−(TFA/UFA)].

[0194] The percent reduction in total hair area after treatmentcorresponds to a reduction in the total hair volume, and calculatedaccording to the following equation:

total hair area reduction=100*[1−(TTA/UTA)].

[0195] A given hair care composition (or control) is typically tested onat least three separate hair samples. The bulk hair area reduction,flyaway hair area reduction, and total hair area reduction are thencalculated for each hair sample, and an average bulk hair areareduction, average flyaway hair area reduction, and average total hairarea reduction are calculated.

[0196] In a preferred embodiment of the Image Analysis Protocol, twopictures of each treated and untreated hair sample are taken. The firstpicture corresponds to the widest profile of the hair sample, while thesecond picture corresponds to the most narrow profile of the hairsample, which is typically a 90° rotation from the widest profile. Then,average values are calculated for the untreated bulk hair area, treatedbulk hair area, etc. These average values are then employed in the aboveequations. Such a procedure is especially useful with hair samples whichare slightly curved, due to their natural contours, or because ofwashing.

EXAMPLES

[0197] The following examples further describe and demonstrate thepreferred embodiments within the scope of the present invention. Theexamples are given solely for the purpose of illustration and are not tobe construed as limitations of the present invention since manyvariations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit andscope of the invention. Ingredients are identified by chemical name, orotherwise defined below.

Example 1

[0198] A hair conditioning composition is formed by the followingprocess.

[0199] The suitable carrier is an aqueous gel matrix, which is formed asfollows: 81% deionized water is heated to 85° C., and 1% PEG-5 cocamineavailable from Th. Goldschmidt AG, 2% Stearamidopropyldimethylamineavailable from Nikko Chemical, and 1.4% L-glutamic acid from Ajinomotoare mixed with 3.6% cetyl alcohl and 6.4% stearyl alcohol fromShin-nihon Rika. The aqueous carrier is maintained at a temperature ofabout 85° C. for about 5 minutes, until the components are homogenized,and no solids are observed. The aqueous carrier is then cooled to about55° C. and maintained at this temperature, until a gel matrix forms.Ester oils such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate available fromKoukyu Alcohol Kogyo Co. are also added to the gel matrix.

[0200] 2% PPG-34 (MW=2,000) available from Sanyo Kasei is mixed with thegel matrix with constant stirring and milling for 15 minutes, to assurehomogenization. Silicones or silicone emulsions such as emulsion of gumand 20 cs fluid blend under the trade name BY22-072 (Dow Corning) can bealso added at this stage. The gel matrix is maintained at about 50° C.during this time. After it is homogenized, it is allowed to cool to roomtemperature, packaged, and stored. A perfume and a preservative are alsoadded to the hair care composition.

[0201] The composition can provide hair area reductions in the followingareas: flyaway hair area by 31%, bulk hair area by 17%, and total hairarea by 22%, measured by the Image Analysis Protocol.

Examples 2-7

[0202] The following flair care compositions are formed by the processdescribe here: Component Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 PEG-5cocamine *1 1.0 — 0.5 — 2.0 1.0 PPG-5 oleylamine *2 — 2.0 — 1.0 — 1.0PPG-34 *3 2.0 — 4.0 — — 1.0 PPG-26 *4 — — — 2.0 — — PPG-30 *5 — 1.0 — —4.0 — Oteyl alcohol *6 — 0.5 — — 0.5 — Caprylic/capric triglyceride *7 —— — 2.0 0.5 — Pentaerythrityl 2.0 — — — — 1.0 tetraisostearate *8Mineral oil *9 — — 0.5 — — — Stearamidopropyldimethyl- 2.0 2.0 1.0 — —1.0 amine *10 L-Glutamic acid *11 1.4 — — 0.7 — 1.6 Lactic acid *12 —1.6 0.9 — — — Behentrimonium chloride *13 — — 0.5 — — — Stearyltrimoniumchloride *14 — — — 1.0 — — Cetrimonium chloride *15 — — — — — 1.0Distearyldimonium — — — — 2.0 — chloride *16 Cetyl alcohol *17 3.6 2.45.6 1.8 2.0 3.0 Stearyl alcohol *18 6.4 3.6 — 2.7 4.0 5.0 Dimethicone —1.0 — — — — gum/fluid blend *19 Amodimethicone — — — 1.0 — — emulsion*20 Cyclomethicone & — — 4.0 — 1.0 2.0 Dimethicone *21Dimethicone/Dimethico- — 1.0 — — — — nol *22 Cyclomethicone/ — — — — —1.0 Dimethiconol *23 Hexylene Glycol *24 — — — — 2.0 — PolyethyleneGlycol 200 *25 — 1.0 — — — 1.0 Octyl Methoxycinnamate *26 — 0.1 — 1.0 —— Vitamin E *27 — — — —  0.05 — DL-Pantyl *28  0.05 — —  0.05 —  0.05DL-Panthenol *29  0.05 — —  0.05 —  0.05 Methyl paraben 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.20.2 — Propyl paraben 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 — Phenoxyethanol — — — — — 0.2EDTA 0.2 0.1 — — 0.1 0.2 Disodium EDTA — 0.1 0.1 0.2 0.1 — Benzylalcohol 0.4 0.4 0.5 0.4 0.2  0.40 Sodium chloride — — —  0.05  0.02 —Perfume 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.2  0.20 0.2 Deionized Water g.s. to 100%

[0203] The embodiments disclosed and represented by the previousexamples have many advantages. For example, these compositions canprovide hair area reductions in the following areas: flyaway hair areaby at least 20%, bulk hair area by at least 10%, and total hair area byat least 12.5%, measured by the Image Analysis Protocol. They can bemade by a convenient manufacturing method.

[0204] It is understood that the examples and embodiments describedherein are for illustrative purposes only and that various modificationsor changes in light thereof will be suggested to one skilled in the artwithout departing from its spirit and scope.

What is claimed is:
 1. A hair care composition comprising: (a) apolyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine of the formula (I), (II), or mixturesthereof:

wherein each R is independently a saturated, unsaturated, straight orbranched alkyl group having from 1 to about 30 carbon atoms, R′ is asaturated, unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl group having from 1to about 4 carbon atoms, each m is 2 or 3, each n is 2 or 3, each x andeach y are independently a number of 1 or more wherein the sum of each xand each y is from about 3 to about 9; and wherein X is any safe andsuitable salt forming anion selected from the group consisting ofchloride, bromide, iodide, acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate,phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkylsulfate, alkyl sulfonate,glutamate, aspartate, and mixtures thereof; and wherein the meltingpoint of the polyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine is less than about 45° C.;and (b) a suitable carrier; wherein the composition reduces bulk hairarea by at least about 10%, according to an Image Analysis Protocol. 2.The hair care composition of claim 1, wherein the composition reducesbulk hair area by at least about 10%, reduces flyaway hair area by atleast about 20%, and reduces total hair area by at least about 12.5%,according to an Image Analysis Protocol.
 3. The hair care composition ofclaim 1, wherein the polyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine is selected fromformula (I), and further comprises an acid selected from the groupconsisting of L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malicacid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citricacid, L-glutamic hydrochloride, L-aspartic acid, and mixtures thereof,wherein the molar ratio of the polyalkyleneglycol(n)alkylamine to H⁺from the acid is preferably from about 1:0.3 to 1:1.2.
 4. The hair carecomposition of claim 1, wherein R is a saturated alkyl group having fromabout 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, m is 2 and the sum of x and y is from3 to 7, and wherein the suitable carrier is an aqueous carrier.
 5. Thehair care composition of claim 1, wherein the composition issubstantially free of an anionic surfactant and substantially free of afilm-forming polymer comprising an anionic moiety.
 6. The hair carecomposition of claim 1, wherein the composition has a viscosity of about5000 to about 40000 cps.
 7. The hair care composition of any of thepreceding claims wherein the composition reduces bulk hair area by atleast about 15% reduces flyaway hair area by at least about 30%, andreduces total hair area by at least about 20%, according to an ImageAnalysis Protocol.
 8. A method of reducing bulk hair area by at leastabout 10% according to the Image Analysis Protocol comprising the stepof applying the hair care composition of claim 1 to the hair.
 9. Themethod according to claim 8 further comprising the steps of: rinsing thehair with abundant amount water; and drying the hair.